The Old Tolbooth of Irvine (1386-1861)
Updated: Jul 12
Standing at the heart of Irvine's High Street for almost 500 years, the Old Tolbooth was far more than just a prison. It served as the Royal Burgh's Townhouse, council chambers and courthouse from the late 14th century until its demolition in 1861. It was from the Tolbooth that councillors governed the burgh, court cases were heard, and prisoners from Irvine and much of north Ayrshire were confined.
Built shortly after 1386, only a few years after King Robert II granted Irvine Royal Burgh status in 1372, the Tolbooth was altered several times over the centuries. The gable was rebuilt in 1672, the steeple replaced in 1681, and major rebuilding work followed in 1745 after the building was damaged by lightning a few years earlier.
In 1808, the iron spire and weathercock were blown down in a gale and replaced by a conical spire with a sloop-shaped vane. The Earl of Eglinton reportedly thought it resembled a candle-snuffer, remarking, “Damn it, ye have clapt an extinguisher on it.”
These photographs, taken in 1861 during the building's final months, are among the earliest known views of Irvine. For a brief period, the old Tolbooth and the new Townhouse stood together before the older building disappeared.
The images also record a substantial stretch of the High Street before Victorian redevelopment altered the town. Shopfronts, gas street lamps, the Old Tron and townspeople going about their daily lives can all be seen.
Rear of the Tolbooth and the Tron (1861)
This view shows the rear of Irvine's medieval Tolbooth shortly before it was demolished.
Just next to the Tolbooth, you can see the Tron, which was Irvine's official burgh weighing machine, used to weigh goods brought into the town. It became redundant after the demolition of the Tolbooth in 1861 and was removed in 1866 as "an obstruction to the public", and had come to be "used chiefly as a seat for miners".¹
The white building on the left is the Wheatsheaf Inn, one of the best-known inns in 19th century Irvine. Beside it stands William Templeton's bookshop, one of Robert Burns's favourite haunts during his stay in Irvine in 1781-82. Burns often visited Templeton to browse books and enjoy the company of the bookseller, who became a friend. Another friend of Burns, David Sillar, also kept one of the shops under the Tolbooth before later being imprisoned there for debt.
Perhaps the most striking feature of the photograph is the group of workmen on the roof. They aren't carrying out repairs, but preparing to dismantle the Tolbooth. After serving as Irvine's council chambers, courthouse and prison for almost five centuries, the building was nearing the end of its long history. Many of its stones were later used to repair the river bank.
Behind the Tolbooth stands the new Italianate Townhouse, officially opened in May 1862. For a short time, the medieval and Victorian civic buildings shared the High Street before the older building disappeared.
Together, these images provide one of the best surviving records of Irvine's High Street before the changes of the 1860s.
The Tolbooth - early 19th century engraving
The Tolbooth, with the Townhouse under construction (1861)
This photograph shows Irvine during a period of major change. The new Townhouse is nearing completion, while the Old Tolbooth is approaching the end of almost 500 years of service. Later that year the Tolbooth was demolished, making way for the new civic building.
The Townhouse was designed by the Kilmarnock architect James Ingram and built at a cost of approximately £4,000. It replaced the ageing Tolbooth despite strong opposition from Provost Thomas Campbell, who argued that the old building should be repaired rather than demolished.
The foundation stone was laid in 1860 by Bailie John Niven after the Provost refused to take part in the ceremony. The Townhouse officially opened in May 1862. The weather vane in the shape of a sloop from the old Tolbooth was later transferred to the new Townhouse, where it remains today.
Jail door of Tolbooth (1861)
When the Tolbooth was demolished, its heavy timber jail door was preserved. By then the building had already ceased to function as a prison, as criminals and debtors had been transferred to Ayr in 1840. Reinforced with iron straps and fittings, the door probably dates from the 16th century, if not earlier.
The old jail door and the key to the Black Hole were among the Tolbooth relics exhibited at the Glasgow International Exhibition in April 1888. Officially known as the Outer Prison, the Black Hole was the windowless dungeon where prisoners were kept in chains. The present whereabouts of both the key and the door are unknown.
The Tolbooth and the Tron - 1859 Ordnance Survey
The 1859 Ordnance Survey shows the Old Tolbooth two years before its demolition. The enlarged map labels the Council Chamber, Townhouse and Police Office. There were also three ground-floor shops, offices for the Town Clerk and storage for the town's fire engine.
Nearby stands the Tron, Irvine's official burgh weighing machine, which had occupied this prominent position in the High Street for centuries.
1859 engraving
1860 drawing
The Irvine Lion
Image courtesy of Irvine Burns Club.
Although the Old Tolbooth has long gone, a small number of decorative features survived. This lion, now preserved in the Irvine Burns Club Wellwood Collection, is one of the few surviving architectural features from the medieval building. Together with the carved stone shown below, it is among the last surviving reminders of the Tolbooth.
LYRA TRIPLEX CUI DIEDAMA TRIPLEX
Image courtesy of Irvine Burns Club.
This plaque originally stood in the Tolbooth courtroom, most likely above the Bench. It probably dates from the rebuilding of 1672 and appears to have been inspired by coins issued during the reign of Charles II.
The inscription today reads LYRA TRIPLEX CUI DIEDAMA TRIPLEX. The first word has been lost over time, while DIEDAMA is almost certainly intended to read DIADEMA. The missing opening word was probably SIT ("let there be"), completing the inscription as "Let there be triple praise for the one with the triple crown."
The motto reflects the strong Royalist sentiment that followed the Restoration of Charles II in 1660. It's generally understood to refer to the three kingdoms of Britain, Ireland and France, over which Charles II claimed sovereignty. Following the Tolbooth’s demolition, the stone was preserved. It was later installed in the entrance hall of the Townhouse before being moved to the staircase of Irvine Burns Club's Wellwood Museum.²
References
¹ A. J. Strawhorn, The History of Irvine, p. 142.
Other Sources Consulted
A. J. Strawhorn, The History of Irvine.
Muniments of the Royal Burgh of Irvine, vol. I (Internet Archive).
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Great research - I amazed about the amount of info I didn’t know!
Maris Dunn who lives in Springside May have the Tollbooth key